The Masculine Approach to Wearing Skirts

Maybe you’re new to skirts, or perhaps you wear them at home but haven’t ventured out in one yet. Or, you might already love skirts and embrace a masculine style.

This article gets into the garments, accessories, and styling tips for dressing 'manly' in a skirt.

Masculine and feminine concepts are subjective and evolve over time. Spartan warriors wore the periskelis, boys used to wear pink, and in many non-western cultures, skirted men is the norm. Among animals, the flashy one is almost always the male.

'Masculine' can be seen as an energy or theatrical spirit that anyone can take on or integrate in their wardrobe. Like yin and yang, most people embody a unique blend of both masculinity and femininity.

Even if a masculine style isn’t your ultimate goal, knowing how to incorporate those elements can be a useful starting point. Dressing more masculine can help you feel confident when stepping out in a skirt, so let’s explore your options. 

What makes an outfit masculine?

Utility

Generally, masculine clothing is more functional and ready-for-action. Think tactical gear, thick denim, or a 3-piece suit with 12 or more pockets. If you're into trends, take a look at machismo gorpcore.

But remember, 'masculine' doesn't have to be tied to gender or sex. Men don't have to be tough or rough, and this notion can be incredibly freeing. Similarly, women and non-binary individuals owe us nothing and often describe their garments or style as masculine.

Accessories

Big pockets are the norm in masculinity. They're more ready-for-action than a bag, which might be flopping around in a sprint. Bags can be highly functional, however. Backpacks, utility belts, messenger satchels, and crossbody bags are some of the more masculine. See Pocketless Skirts: How to Adapt for tips and examples.

A belt can add a masculine vibe, especially if it's sturdy and functional instead of decorative. Go with a middle of the road width—feminine belts are often narrow, or ultra wide.

Jewelry is becoming more popular with men—almost gender neutral—in recent years.

"Little details such as the size of your watch or style of a bracelet or necklace can entirely change whether an outfit is masculine or feminine." — The Beskirted Man ¹

In general, jewelry that enhances a masculine look might be more rugged, heavy, dark, matte, minimal, or have certain symbolic motifs. For example—a large watch, chunky rings, a simple necklace with a dagger pendant, a thick leather bracelet, or studded earrings.

The person wearing it

Your body language and behaviour signal masculinity more than just about anything, and many guides on this topic can be found online. There's a related quote from Jean Paul Gaultier:

"A man does not wear his masculinity on his clothes; his virility is in his head."

Certain physical traits will also produce a more masculine appearance.

Facial hair is one—a mustache, beard, or good amount of stubble will have a strong effect.

Hairy legs (vs. shaved) happens to be more masculine. Show them off! And if you've got it, let a little chest hair through with a v-neck or partially unbuttoned shirt.

Muscle definition is often linked with masculinity too. Skirts can emphasize the calves and thighs, while certain tops will showcase the forearms, biceps, and shoulders.

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Now let's look at specific garments.

Skirts

To choose a masculine skirt, consider its cut, length, colours or patterns, fabric, as well as detail and structure.

Cut

The shape or outline of a skirt is arguably the most important factor.

"The outline of a masculine skirt will always resemble a rectangle, square, or trapezoid. ​If there is draping, it's elongated and subtle. If there are gathers, they are similarly subtle -- there's never a bouffant [rounded] effect at the hips." — Truth is Beauty ²

When acquiring skirts, consider the relevant differences between male and female bodies, and how certain skirts might be designed and perceived:

1. Hip-to-waist ratio. Females have wider hips, on average. Skirts that are especially tailored to this can be uncomfortable on males and look more rounded or feminine. Stretchy fabric is forgiving, though.
2. Rise. Females have a bit more height between the hips and waist. Women's skirts are often tailored or exaggerated in this way, with a waistline near the navel. Wearing a low-rise skirt might look slightly closer to shorts or pants, but then again, kilts are ultra masculine and sit high. And you will lose style points by pulling a high-rise skirt too low. See Where's My Waistline? for comparison pics and considerations.

So which skirt types are most masculine? Here's a helpful quote:

"Crisp straight lines communicate power while fluid planes suggest docility." — Vox clamantis in deserto ³

Straight skirts are classic for those with masculine style. They range from square shapes, to rectangular pencil skirts. Slim or fitted can be masculine, up to a point; tight or sleek is where it gets feminine.

Many western skirts for men, including kilts, fall somewhere between straight and the trapezoid shaped a-line. The wider an a-line skirt flares at the bottom, the more feminine it might be perceived.

You will see modern masculine cuts that are asymmetrical too, like this shorts-resembling skirt from Rick Owens. One of the most popular skirts amongst male celebrities comes from Thom Browne and has a longer tail—see it here.

Wrap skirts are also known to be masculine, given that they're worn by men across many cultures. For example, the sarong, kilt, dhoti, and lungi.

Length

In western culture, the masculine standard is a kilt, which extends to the knees. In many eastern cultures, sarong-like skirts can be gender-neutral or more commonly worn by men, making longer skirts more normalized for men globally than, say, miniskirts.

The diagram below relates to western culture, and 'masculine' does not need to be tied to gender. The suggested lengths are based on averages of what's out there today, and are not meant to be hard rules. It's constantly evolving.

Colours and patterns

As for colours, dark and dull are generally more masculine. Start with black, blue, dark grey, green, burgundy, and brown. Black and other dark shades will create less definition in the detail of the skirt and fool some into thinking you're wearing shorts, depending on the skirt's design.

For light colours, khaki and grey are your best bet. If you prefer pink, kilts with this tartan pattern can be found.

Pattern-wise, plaid and tartan may be the most masculine, along with camo, houndstooth, and pinstripes. Feminine patterns include floral, polka dots, lace, swirls.

The sarong, and similar wrap skirts will let you explore bright colours and patterns, since they're commonly associated with men, and difficult to find in darker shades.

Fabric

If a skirt needs to appear more ready-for-action to be masculine, then thick, heavy, and rough textiles are the way to go.

Denim, twill, wool, canvas, and corduroy are examples of masculine fabrics.

On the other hand, clingy, lacey, silky, frilly, or ruffled fabrics are considered more feminine.

Detail and structure

These offer a range of things that shift how a skirt is perceived, but they're mostly absent on the average skirt. 

While plain and minimal skirts are often more masculine, certain details can achieve this effect as well. Belt loops, buckles, straps, and buttons can all add masculinity, if they look more rugged and capable, vs. pretty.

A fly—especially a working one—will make a skirt look more like pants, and add masculinity. Buttons up the front can do the same. People generally see side and rear fastening/zippers as more feminine.

Pockets add structure, functionality, and a masculine aesthetic to skirts. If you can find them, go for skirts with large (even cargo) pockets.

Remember that boxy shapes and lines will flatter the masculine figure. This applies not only to a skirt's cut, but details as well. Large, sharp pleats are an example.

Deep box pleats (opposite facing folds that create box-like shapes) will add masculine structure, as long as they don't puff the skirt out into a rounded shape. Thin pleats (under 1 inch) will start to look more feminine.

Finally, some details are more neutral, like frayed hems which can go either way.

Tops

Men's shirts with an especially masculine vibe include buttoned down (flannel, plaid, dark colours, and white), polo, and rugby shirts. Roll up the sleeves and let your forearms breathe. Do exercises that make your arms bigger.

If it's warm, tank tops can accentuate the shoulder and arm muscles. 

As we mentioned above, big v-necks and chest hair are a masculine combo.

If it's cold, quarter-zip pull overs work well.

Try jackets and blazers that emphasize the shoulders and look a bit rugged.

Two quick style tips:

1. Whatever you go with, make sure the top is fitted.
2. Avoid letting tops extend too far past the waistline. Look for slightly shorter blazers, and tuck in long shirts—unless you're going intentionally baggy.

Some men will explore more feminine skirts but stick to masculine tops and shoes. Others might do masculine above the waist and embrace tights and heels.

Don't be afraid to get creative. With poncho tops like this, a skirt is mostly hidden, or a natural extension of the poncho. Plus, it's a fun and comfortable combo.

Leg wear

Partly from of the influence of kilts, showing hairy legs will give a more masculine look. Socks that are reminiscent of kilt hose (thick stockings with a cuff fold at the top, just below the knee) might not hurt, especially in cold weather.

Wearing pants under a skirt has become trendier in recent years—for example, with baggy denim. It's fairly neutral, and men can pull off the look.

Wool, cotton, and thermal leggings are the more masculine under layers. Tights and stockings start to get more feminine, especially when they have patterns or thinner weights. These garments can be polarizing for skirted men, but darker colours will often go unnoticed. We'd definitely recommend having at least one pair of black tights.

Shoes

Generally, if it has a larger sole or footprint, it will look more masculine.

If you want to go ultra masculine, wear combat or hiking boots. All those laces paired with thick leather or canvas gives a bull in a china shop vibe. They're so masculine that they can let you experiment more with feminine tops and accessories.

A high ankle height is the most masculine, and that's true for Doc Martens as well. A black pair will go with almost any skirt.

Dress shoes can work, but opt for rounded vs. pointy toes.

In warmer weather, heavy duty hiking sandals will look the most rugged, and work with many skirts. Brown leather strap or buckle sandals are great for a more casual or dressy look.

Conclusion

Whether an outfit is perceived as masculine depends on more than the garments. Culture and setting play a huge role.

"The same skirt will probably be perceived differently if you were wearing it in a night club, walking past a building site or on a tropical beach." — SkirtsDad on Skirt Café ⁴

The wearer's demeanour, hair, or build can completely shift someone's perception as well—in the right context, a pink miniskirt can look very masculine.

If you’re still unsure where to start, consider a knee length skirt with a straight or slight a-line cut, a dark or neutral colour, and rugged fabric. Pair it with boots and a fitted shirt with buttons.

When you get more comfortable you can experiment with other skirts that suit your style and physique. Mix and match different garments and accessories. A quick trip to the thrift store can often tell you what you like, and what works.

If you need more inspiration, check out 100+ looks in our Masculine skirt outfits Pinterest board.

Find what resonates, and wear what you love. You'll inspire others, desensitize them, and expand their world views.

Do you agree with the ideas above? What are ways that you incorporate "masculine" elements in your outfits?

Sources

¹ How To Dress Masculinely in a Skirt: Parts One and Two – The Beskirted Man

² How Masculine Style IDs do Skirts – Truth is Beauty

³ A Guy’s Guide to Getting Skirted – Vox clamantis in deserto

What makes a skirt manly v feminine – The Skirt Cafe

• ⁴ Page 11

Skirt silhouettes and styling for men – Robert Hickman

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• How to make a skirt look masculine?
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